Thursday, 9 July 2009

"The Last Post"

A big thank you to all who have sponsored and supported me on what for me has been an epic journey and a terrific experience. 

If you haven't already sponsored me, there is still time!    

Just for the record I completed 2,895 miles over the 9 weeks of the trip.
           Campsite in Germany.
                                         "Sweetheart" says I've lost weight!
                                            The Rhine,  between Mainz and Koblenz
                                                                  Budapest at night
'Sweetheart' with her lunch in great little "Eetkezede" in Budapest, a beautiful city.   We had a lovely time.
Ferry across the Danube in Hungary.  I crossed the river many times.  Every country that the Danube passes through, which includes Bulgaria, Romania, Serbia, Hungary, Slovakia, Austria and Germany seem to use a different system of ferry.  The Hungarian system has a small 'tug' which nudges the ferry to manoeuvre it - ingenious!



                            The Danube looking from the Romanian side towards Bulgaria.
                                                               Gypsies in Bulgaria
Fish Kebabs in Golupolu (Galipoli) in Turkey.   They were delicious!

Monday, 6 July 2009

Wed 6th May.  My first glimpses of the Danube near Ruse in Bulgaria.

Monday 26th April.  The Memorial dedicated to those killed in Dardenelles campaign during the First World War.   Picture taken looking across Dardenelles straights from Canakale.
Outside Jimmy's bar  9.00 a.m Wednesday 22nd April - Just before leaving Lafionas, Lesbos 

Tuesday, 30 June 2009

Friday 12th June
Welcome "day-off".  After sorting my chores, catch bus into Old Town Heidelberg and enjoy a beer in Seppl bar, where Magoo, Maple, Chris, Dave, Squire and I used to frequent when we hitch hiked to Heidelberg in 1966 - happy memories.

Saturday 13th June
Follow cycle paths after leaving Heidelberg, which fishermen inform me is "Kaput!".  It takes me at least an hour to find an alternative route.  Camp near lake after meeting Dutch couple on tandem who guide me to camp site.

Sunday 14th June
Great ride alongside Rhine to Saint Goar Youth Hostel where I meet Theo, yet another Dutch cyclist who is just cycling back to The Hague from Bodensee.  He intends to spend a few days at home and then off to cycle Hadrians Wall and West coast of Scotland.

Monday 15th June
The only day of the trip so far when it rained virtually all day.   I got to speak to other cyclists who were sheltering under bridges.   Reach Bad Honnef youth hostel which is predictable high German standard.

Tuesday 16th June
Cycle alongside Rhine through Bonn Cologne and the industrial area of Germany, although I'm hardly aware of it whilst I'm on cycle paths.  Stop at bakery run by Iranian guy for bockwurst and bread, who reckons present Iranian leader is new Hitler!  Camp at site beside Rhine where I can lie in bed and watch barges go by.  Very good Gasthaus nearby for soup and Vienerschnitzle.

Wednesday 17th June
Through Dusseldorf and stop for Kebab for lunch.  Turkish guys running bar remind me of days in Turkey two months ago.  Youth hostel full in Kleve so stay in very good "Zimmer".

Thurs 18th June
Lovely  ride along "Dyk".  Strong head winds again and quite tired by the time I reach Bunnik Youth Hostel near Utrecht.

Friday 19th June
Reach The Hague.   Pop into bar for a beer where I meet Andre, from Burundi who has had both parents and two sisters murdered in genocide 7 years ago.  A very sad man, who made me feel that I am a very lucky man.

Saturday 20th June
Spend morning around Youth Hostel and meet interesting people, including Aussie Rob, who is a young dancer, who is in The Hague to visit dance groups in Holland and Europe including DV8 in London, and Fraser, young Scot working in Court of Human Rights in the Hague.

Sunday 21st June
After lazy morning, cycle to catch overnight ferry from Hook of Holland to Harwich.

Monday 22nd June
Lovely ride through quiet roads of Essex to Saffron Waldon Youth Hostel.  Enjoy a pint and pasta at Wetherspoons for a fiver!  Three cheers for Wetherspoons.

Tuesday 23rd June
Continue through lovely lanes and roads until I reach Milton Keynes, where it takes at least an hour to find Youth Hostel through the maze of roads.  I keep bumping into two other cyclists from Leeds who are also looking for the hostel.  Both are very small and in their 60's, like two "Diddy Men"!  I beat them to it.

Wednesday 24th June
As soon as I get out of Milton Keynes, I'm back in beautiful countryside.  Call at Falkland Arms in Great Tew for sandwich and pint, lovely little pub and makes me feel good to be back in England.  The last night I spend on good camp site in Morton in Marsh.  Bernard 'the Bolt' and Kevin ride out on the motor bikes for evening meal.

Thursday 25th June
My last day.  I meet 'Crow', Birdy and Ben  at Half Way House pub in Kineton for baguette and a pint.  Good to see them all.
By the time I get back to Worcester I have completed the grand total of 2895 miles since leaving Lafionas, but more important than that I have had a fantastic experience, seen some wonderful places and met some great people.   Many, many fantastic memories.

Friday, 12 June 2009

Sat 6th June

Lovely ride, still following the Danube, from Passau to Staubing. Staubing Youth Hostel like something out of the 60´s with rules and regulations everywhere.
I´ve stayed in youth hostels about 6 times so far, and every time I am put in a room by myself! I´m trying to work out the reason?!

Sun 7th June
Staubling to Inglestadt - got my calculations wrong here. I had pre-booked youth hostel at Inglestadt, and by the time I reached it I had done 90 odd miles and I was absolutely knackered.
Inglestadt is a beautiful town.

Mon 8th June
Lazy morning after yesterdays efforts. The 40 odd miles to Donauworth seems a doddle!

Tues 9th June
Leave Donauworth in rain and head away from the Danube for the first time since 6th May. I reckon I have followed the river for between 1200 and 1400 miles.

Wed 10th June
Great ride through Black Forest roads and villages. Find lovely campsite near Hosslinsulz, situated beside lovely little lake. The warden asked where I had come from when I was checking in. I told him that I had started from Greece, within 20 minutes the local newspaper arrived to interview me!

Thurs 11th June
I pick up the Neckar river and follow great cycle paths to Heidleberg, and check in for two nights. Feel like a rest and need to wash some "smalls" ready for the push back to England.
Looking forward to Pip Squeaks Goulash!

Monday, 8 June 2009

Tues/Fri 26th - 29th May
Sweetheart and I spend great few days in Budapest at Danube Guest House. Amazing bar called Simpler and thermal baths, boat trip, bus trip and meals. Great times and a good rest.

Sat 30th May
Good cycle ride beside Danube and stay put in Estergom, as it´s started pouring with rain. Great meal in little restaurant where I have good chat with waitress and Hungarian/Canadian who had been an airline pilot, who said that if you that you had to to your favourite hobby for 30 years - that´s the job I had!

Sun 31st May
Miserable weather. Stopped for coffee at little village bar for coffee, whereupon Hungarian all male version of NBCC turn up, and we all start singing "Singing in the rain".
Find a room just outside Gyor and wander up to hotel just up road for food, I meet Fritz and his wife from Berlin. They invite me to share delicious Hungarian dessert wine. Thanks again Fritz.

Mon 1st June
Good ride to Bratislava - though a bit hairy getting into city. Enjoy a couple of beers at KGB bar with statues of Stalin, Lenin etc.

Tues 2nd June
Follow cycle path beside Danube which is long, flat and staight and sometimes a bit boring. Cycle though Vienna beside river to Klosterneug. Very good "Zimmer" where mein host is Austrian Basil Fawlty!

Wed 3rd June
Suddenly loads of cyclists - I understand why, because beautiful through delightful villages through grape growing area.

Thurs 4th June
Very strong headwind and I´m quite tired and just looking for campsite recommended by Tourist information in Linz, when German couple direct me to lovely little campsite that they are staying on. I share a lovely evening meal talking to Suzanne and Andy music. Thanks again for your company Suzanne and Andy - and for the Schnapps! And lovely send off next morning with Andy playing Galician folk music on his accordian.

Fri 5th June
Still loads of cyclists and lovely stretch of river - anyone comtemplating Cycling holiday, this is the stretch to do. Arrive Passau Youth Hostel - more effort to push bike up steep hill to hostel than it was to cycle previous 50 odd miles! but fantastic place when I get up there.

Tuesday, 26 May 2009

The Danube between Orsova and Moldova Veche on the Romanian side.
Christian - The best bicycle repairman in Romania. I hope he sees this photo because somehow I managed to loose his email address. Thanks again Christian for your help.
Hi Folks its me! Had a bit of a hard day today and it's been very hot. Sweetheart says I should loose a bit of weight, I think I'm doing ok - she will be pleased

Saturday, 23 May 2009

Sat 23rd May

Left Mohacs after unbelievable thunder storm during evening. Lots of debris scattered over the roads from ferocious wind. Arrived Dunafalva mid morning and had to wait until 11 a.m. for ferry.
The best ferry I've ever been on. Followed signpost for Eurovelo Route 6 along sometimes rough track and arrive at Kalocsa where charming girl, Roberta, at Tourist information shows where I can camp for free!

Just clocked 1300 miles, I must have earned a few 'eco points'!

Friday, 22 May 2009

Thurs 21st May
Day off. I have a little time in hand and left knee playing up, so decided rest was a good option - especially as little hotel very good and inexpensive.

Fri 22nd May
Still very hot but on the road early. I've started picking up sign posts for Eurovelo Route 6 which runs from Nantes in France to Constanta in Romania on the Black Sea. Follow suggested route from Apatin, last town in Serbia, cross border into Croatia and after about 15 miles cross another border into Hungary. About 55 miles.

Thursday, 21 May 2009

My husband wouldn't like it!

Wed 20th May

Great ride to Apatin, just south of Hungarian border. 63 miles and great little hotel Zlatna Kruna right beside the Danube.

Stopped at petrol station for a drink. Two lovely girls running the station saw me arrive on bicycle, and start asking me about my trip.  "Where do you sleep?" asked one.

"With you if you like" I replied.

"My husband wouldn't like it" she said.

"We wont tell him!"  - she blushed and laughed.  Oh to be 30 years younger.

Thanks to everyone who has made contribution.  Great to hear from you all and keeps me going to halfway stop to meet Sweetheart!  I hear that the weather in UK not so good, it's very good here, although it gets too warm for cycling later in the day; well into 80's.

Tuesday, 19 May 2009

It`s getting hotter!

Sunday 17th May
Leave Bella Crka and on to Pancevo. Glad to reach Hotel after 50 miles as it`s getting warm!

Monday 18th May (Happy Birthday - Ben Nelsey, and the Guvenor if he`s reading this from above!)
It`s already 20`, I notice while eating breakfast at 7.30. I can honestly say that I exceeded the advised intake of 2 litres water in a day today. Very hot, but I make nearly 70 miles to Novi Sad, which is Serbia`s second city. The saving grace being flat terrain and following wind. Novi Sad is a lovely place right on the Danube and very much pavement cafe culture.


Tuesday 19th May
Day off and I think it`s hotter still. I spend morning finding bicycle shop and getting rear tyre changed which I notice a few days earlier is badly worn in places.
Indulge myself in lunch of Beef soup, Cabbage Salad, Pancakes, 2 glasses of wine and a coffee in great restaurant 4600 Lire (4 pounds 60p). Hit the road again tomorrow - hope it`s not quite so hot.

Saturday, 16 May 2009

Thurs 14th May
Weather much better, and I cycle along road which runs directly alongside the Danube. Road busy to begin with but then much quieter and spectacular scenery. River very wide in places and then funnels through deep gorges. I have done around 30 miles and stop at little roadside restaurant for drink - turns out to be little hotel, so book in! Anyone coming to Romania, stay at Steaua Dunarii - 30 Euros a night for a double room.

Fri 15th May
Reluctantly leave Steaua Dunarii and for nearly 60 miles hardly see one car in 10 minutes. If it wasn't for the fact that I'm following river I would think I'm on wrong road. Find hotel in Moldova Veche where there is to be 18th birthday party that evening, they are just tuning up loudest disco I think I've ever heard. Waiter says it should finish around 3 - it eventually finishes 3.45!
Just clocked 1,000 miles since leaving Lafionas.

Sat 16th May
Great ride along lovely quiet lanes. Stop at little shop in village and sit down outside whereupon three lad come up - Firstly we argue about which football team is best (Man U, Chelsea etc) then they want to know if English girls are any good!!
Arrive border crossing to Serbia where there are at least 30 cars waiting to cross with no sign of any movement. I just cycle to front and pass straight through - it's easy on a pedal bike.

Wednesday, 13 May 2009

Monday 11th May
Leave Kozloduj and pass through Lom, a very poor looking town and start out of town along unbelievebly bad road (track) which eventually turns into tarmaced road. Very quiet, maybe one car every 10 - 15 minutes and no bars or shops for maybe 15 miles. Eventually reach village Dobri Dol, and spot 'motel' which is open. Walk in and there is party being given by great big Bulgarian guy, apparently because both his parents had recently died! Young guy, son of lady who owns the Motel, speaks very good English, welcomes me in and asks me to sit down and join the party! I eventually decide I have to stay the night.

Tuesday 12th May
Leave Motel at Dobri Dol after good brakfast of ham and eggs and make my way to Vidin and cross river by ferry to Calafat (Romania). Book into Hotel where I meet 4 German ladies in their 60's making their way from Danube Delta to Belgrade by bicycle.

Wednesday 13 th May
Thunder storm during night, but storm largely passed by morning. Make my way to Dobreta-Turnu Severin. Good ride 63 miles.

Sunday, 10 May 2009

"It's not allowed!"

Friday 8th May
Once I get out of Ruse and off main road, good ride t0 Svistov. Find hotel Danube where I ask about room - no problem. I then ask if it's possible to bring bike in hotel? "It's not allowed" was the very firm response. Is there a ferry across the Danube at Svishtov? - "No".

I try hotel across the road. No problem bringing a bike into the hotel, and guess what, there is a ferry across the Danube at Svishtov.

Saturday 9th May
Catch 9 a.m. ferry. I am one of the only two passengers, the other being a great Romanian guy who had been to Svishtov for Rotary meeting. He came out with the wonderful saying - ' "Never Give up"- the Frog said as he was in the Snakes jaws!'
Great days cycling; flat, no wind and find great hotel in Corabia, just beside the Danube.
En route stop at little road side bar for a drink where bar owner speaks a little English. About half an hour later as I'm cycling along, this same guy pulls up in his old citroen van, just passed me and asks me if I want a lift to the next town. I declined - honest!
I reach the next town, Turnu Magurele, and I'm just finding my way through, when another van draws up just in front. Guy gets out and starts shaking my hand. I can just about decypher script on his van "Bicycle repairs". It turns out the guy, 'Christian', just loves bicycles . I explain I'm having little problem with my gears. "Follow me" he says. He then spends about 45 minutes adjusting all gears, perfect! and he would not let me pay.
Met Elvira and Frank, great German couple in their mid 60's making their way on bicycles the opposite direction. They had started in Belgrade and following the Danube to Constanta on Black Sea coast. Great to meet you both and good cycling for the rest of your trip.

Sunday 10th May
Can't help but reflect that this is just a little bit different to this time last year, when I was sharing celebration with Peter of our '60th's' at wonderful party at the Maples with lots of great friends. This year I'm 'on my tod', but I'm having a fantastic experience and met some wonderful people - I feel I'm very lucky to be able to embark on these trips.

800 miles since leaving Lafionas. 185 in the last 3 days.

Dardenelles must be coming up soon!

And I'm keeping a sharp look- out for Tiger Moths approaching from the West!

Good news for Magoo, lots of Trabants, Wartburgs, Lada's and as one avid follower has pointed Moskvitch and I've even seen a few Yugo's that are actually still moving - whatever happened to Magoo's?

Thursday, 7 May 2009

Dressed up Bulgarian Style


Special message to Jo, "Beaut", "Lickin" and "Boumie"

Wish Boumie and Lickin could be with me on my travels. I could do with some encouragement sometimes, and I know they would be going faster!
Fri 1st May
Left Svilengrad in pretty gloomy weather. Stopped around midday in small town around 20 miles north. Met Bulgarian guy who turns out to be artist and his French lady Francoise who live most of the time in Paris, and then we are joined by English couple, Barry and Margaret Williamson, who took early retirement, travelled the world 3 times including cycling across USA twice, Australia once and the length of New Zealand. They have a website, anyone interested in reading about their travels, I can give you details
By this it was pouring with rain so invited back to Boyko's mothers flat for a drink. All very interesting and sociable.
Booked into Hotel, which although one building, isn't one hotel, but THREE! A nine storey block split into 3 all competing for same customers.

Sat 2nd May
Still raining, but decided to get going. Stopped at really rough little bar when rain got really heavy, whereupon guys in bar seeing my plight, got a load of big old polythene bags, cut holes for arms and head, and dressed me up in them. We were all in stitches, and of course they can't speak any English.
I ate quite good evening meal in bar with Bulgarian pop music (not good!) blaring out, football on TV, and a big picture of Jesus Christ looking at us from behind the bar.

Sun 3rd May
Better weather. Nova Zagora to Karnobat, 58 miles along busy main road. Glad to find comfortable hotel, but all restaurants etc closed - Sunday. 3 packets of crisps, 2 beers, a bar of chocalate for tea!

Mon 4th May
Lovely weather and quiet roads. Loads of birdsong and alot of cuckoos. Great days riding today although tired after 62 miles and two climbs. Directed out of poor looking town of Veliki Preslav to hotel which has good restauant with a lovely girl singer who proceeds to sing "Yesterday" while looking lovingly into my eyes!

Tues 5th May
After breakfast walk down lovely little road where there is an extraordinary acheological museum. Beautiful building, quite a shock after all the ugly communist era tower blocks. All this overlooks lovely monastry which lies in a valley.
Good days cycling, and for one hour in the afternoon I have the wind with me, instead of quite strong north westerly headwind, and instead of making 7 - 8 mph, I'm suddenly making 12 -14 mph. Overnight hotel Popovo. Another good day.

Wed 6th May
Lovely morning and make my way through lovely lanes until I meet main road which leads into Ruse, a big town, and I catch my first glimpse of the Danube.

Thurs 7th May
A day off to rest my weary limbs, wash my "smalls" and chill out, and of course update blog. I've managed just over 600 miles in 15 days so far. Emile, the guy in internet cafe very helpful - hence photo uploaded; also been telling me much about the area, I really should come back here sometime.

Good to see support from everyone, we've even got Potter logged in. Glad to see he is ferverishly sorting Tiger Moth for trip to Lesbos!

And another late entry - Rachael, Laurent, Jessica and "horrors". Rachael please tell Luca and Oscar that 'Golden Go Go' has been my very lucky mascot so far - and he has done 600 miles on a pedal bike.

Thursday, 30 April 2009

Arrived Bulgaria

Met great Finish guy,Timo, whilst having breakfast in Uzenkupru, who is on world tour on his BMW 1200 GS. Just got checked into hotel in Slivengrad, Bulgaria before thunder storm.
62 miles today - a good day.

Wednesday, 29 April 2009

Canakale, Golupolu and the Dardenelles

All going well so far even if a little more slowly than I expected. Canakale and the Dardenelles straits really very interesting. ANZAC day had only been the day previous to the day I arrived, so quite a number of Australians around to honour the day. Gallipoli is apparantly the only remembrance day that is joined by both parties who fought in the conflict. Both sides it seems developed a real respect for the way each side fought the conflict, and the way the other side treated prisoners of war.

I had quıte a long chat with Aussie who was with party of hıstory students who were over to honour the day.

Mon 27th April Good but short ride up to Golupolu, where I enjoyed delicious fish kebab.

Tues 28th April Another good day, managed 45 miles today, so starting to get into my stride.
Arrived Keçan and after booking into good hotel had a walk around quite big town where a couple of ageing hookers tried to drag me into a bar!

Wed 29th April Made my way to Uzenköpru where I stopped for lunch. Much merriment in Kafeteria where a guy was cracking and eating hazel nuts - Turkish viagra - 2 or 3 times he kept indicating. All the other guys were laughing their head off.
By the time all this was over, it had started to rain so rather than push on, decided to find hotel in town.

Tuesday, 28 April 2009

Geez runs London Marathon

Tom Nelsey (Alıas 'Geez'), Sue's son, completed the London Marathon last Sunday, in a time which I understand was under 4 hours - a fantastic achievement - well done Geez!

I know that Tom would be really pleased with any donation, however small (or large) to his chosen charıty which is:-

www.againstmalaria.com/tomnelsey

Sunday, 26 April 2009

And so to the 'Dardenelles'

Sorted mystery of logging on to Blog - 2 'i's on Turkish keyboard, andguess what the 'i' you think you should use is not the 'i' you should use!

Thurs 23rd Aprıl
Caught 8.30 ferry from Mytilene to Ayvalik in Turkey, and set off into quıte strong headwind. Arrived Burhanıye and booked into small hotel. Spent at least half an hour with receptionist and one the guest discussing my route, and eventually decided against Istanbul and for Dardenelles!

Frı 24th April
Carried on, again into headwind, to Kucukkuyu. Lovely little place, and you can see Lesbos in the distance. Some lovely scenery so far, although some terrain a bit testing, but the most memorable feature so far has been the lovely Turkısh people. Just one example, pulled up in square in nice little town Edremit, old man sitting on a bench sees me and straight away invites me to share his seat for a rest, obviously we couldn't talk - except to say 'meheba' (hello) but nevertheless real communication.

Wednesday, 22 April 2009



Outside Jimmy's Bar, Lafionas on morning of departure.

Ready get set.....

22nd April
After couple of fried eggs for breakfast, I crossed the island of Lesbos to Mytilene, the capital and port.Lovely weather during the few days Simon and I spent in Lafionas, but would you believe it,thunder storms today. However managed to reach Porto Lesvos Hotel before real rain. Ferry booked for tomorrow crossing to Ayvalik in Turkey. Hoping for better weather.

Sunday, 19 April 2009

Preparation!

19th April 2009
Preparation for 'Return' going according to plan. New tyres, a good clean and adjustments all round for the bike. So machinery should be up to scratch. The human half of the equation is a little more problematic having been fortified by "smooth, strong rum" by Magoos, and various Greek alcoholic potions with "Flying Doctor", my dear bro!
I have a feeling that there will be an alcoholic haze following me for the first day or two as I head over the hills of Lesbos and Turkey.

Tuesday, 24 March 2009

The blog lives!!!

Many of you will already know that I cycled out to Lesbos in 2007. Anyone interested in reading about that adventure can do so by accessing the Blog detailed on the top right of this page.

The time draws ever closer for the return trip.  

My proposed route for return is to cycle across Lesbos to the capital, Mytilene, catch the ferry to Ayvalik in Turkey and make my way to Istanbul.  

From Istanbul, catch ferry to Odessa and then cycle round the Black Sea coast to the mouth of the Danube.   I will then cycle the length of the Danube (approx 1800 miles) into Germany and then pick up the Rhine to the North Sea and then back home. (Total distance I estimate to be about 2,500 miles)

I am again raising funds for charity.   I have for some time supported the charity Actionaid, and have agreed with them to allocate any funds to one little boy, Jamadi Odeke who was born in 2005.   Yes, thats him above! Lets see if we can make him look a little happier.

Here is some background information on Jamadi.   He is one of a family of two children.  He lives in Malera village in Kumi district in eastern Uganda with his family.  Their house is made of mud and thatch.  Jamadi's family is Muslim and they speak Ateso.

Farming is the main source of income and food in Kumi.   Crops like cassava, sweet potatoes, millet and rice are grown.   Few people are able to grow enough, forcing families to cut down to just one meal a day; usually millet mixed with cassava porridge.   Like most people Jamadi's family own a small plot of land.   They keep some livestock - most people keep Zebu cattle, goats, sheep, pigs and poultry though in small number.   The lack of income also means families cannot afford many basic necessities like medical care, education and clothing.

Water is scarce, especially during the dry season.   There are approximately 300 boreholes in the area, but only 167 work.   Women and children, who collect water, have to walk long distances to reach these boreholes.

Health and education facilities are inadequate.   Families have to walk over 5 kms to the nearest health centre, which is poorly equipped and lacks essential medication.   There is only one doctor per 24,120 people.   For children who go to school, lessons are often held under trees or in temporary shelters.   School dropout rates are high, especially among girls and 69% of women are illiterate.   Jamadi does not attend school.

Actionaid Uganda will be working with the people of Kumi to build strong community organisations.   Through these groups, they will develop their skills, so they can tackle the problems they face and access their basic rights like livelihoods, food availability, water, healthcare and education.   

I am sure that any contribution will make a difference to Jamadi's future.   Lets see if we can make a BIG difference to Jamadi's life.

Anyone wanting to donate please use the link:-