The Danube between Orsova and Moldova Veche on the Romanian side.
Tuesday, 26 May 2009
Saturday, 23 May 2009
Sat 23rd May
Left Mohacs after unbelievable thunder storm during evening. Lots of debris scattered over the roads from ferocious wind. Arrived Dunafalva mid morning and had to wait until 11 a.m. for ferry.
The best ferry I've ever been on. Followed signpost for Eurovelo Route 6 along sometimes rough track and arrive at Kalocsa where charming girl, Roberta, at Tourist information shows where I can camp for free!
Just clocked 1300 miles, I must have earned a few 'eco points'!
Left Mohacs after unbelievable thunder storm during evening. Lots of debris scattered over the roads from ferocious wind. Arrived Dunafalva mid morning and had to wait until 11 a.m. for ferry.
The best ferry I've ever been on. Followed signpost for Eurovelo Route 6 along sometimes rough track and arrive at Kalocsa where charming girl, Roberta, at Tourist information shows where I can camp for free!
Just clocked 1300 miles, I must have earned a few 'eco points'!
Friday, 22 May 2009
Thurs 21st May
Day off. I have a little time in hand and left knee playing up, so decided rest was a good option - especially as little hotel very good and inexpensive.
Fri 22nd May
Still very hot but on the road early. I've started picking up sign posts for Eurovelo Route 6 which runs from Nantes in France to Constanta in Romania on the Black Sea. Follow suggested route from Apatin, last town in Serbia, cross border into Croatia and after about 15 miles cross another border into Hungary. About 55 miles.
Day off. I have a little time in hand and left knee playing up, so decided rest was a good option - especially as little hotel very good and inexpensive.
Fri 22nd May
Still very hot but on the road early. I've started picking up sign posts for Eurovelo Route 6 which runs from Nantes in France to Constanta in Romania on the Black Sea. Follow suggested route from Apatin, last town in Serbia, cross border into Croatia and after about 15 miles cross another border into Hungary. About 55 miles.
Thursday, 21 May 2009
My husband wouldn't like it!
Wed 20th May
Great ride to Apatin, just south of Hungarian border. 63 miles and great little hotel Zlatna Kruna right beside the Danube.
Stopped at petrol station for a drink. Two lovely girls running the station saw me arrive on bicycle, and start asking me about my trip. "Where do you sleep?" asked one.
"With you if you like" I replied.
"My husband wouldn't like it" she said.
"We wont tell him!" - she blushed and laughed. Oh to be 30 years younger.
Thanks to everyone who has made contribution. Great to hear from you all and keeps me going to halfway stop to meet Sweetheart! I hear that the weather in UK not so good, it's very good here, although it gets too warm for cycling later in the day; well into 80's.
Tuesday, 19 May 2009
It`s getting hotter!
Sunday 17th May
Leave Bella Crka and on to Pancevo. Glad to reach Hotel after 50 miles as it`s getting warm!
Monday 18th May (Happy Birthday - Ben Nelsey, and the Guvenor if he`s reading this from above!)
It`s already 20`, I notice while eating breakfast at 7.30. I can honestly say that I exceeded the advised intake of 2 litres water in a day today. Very hot, but I make nearly 70 miles to Novi Sad, which is Serbia`s second city. The saving grace being flat terrain and following wind. Novi Sad is a lovely place right on the Danube and very much pavement cafe culture.
Tuesday 19th May
Day off and I think it`s hotter still. I spend morning finding bicycle shop and getting rear tyre changed which I notice a few days earlier is badly worn in places.
Indulge myself in lunch of Beef soup, Cabbage Salad, Pancakes, 2 glasses of wine and a coffee in great restaurant 4600 Lire (4 pounds 60p). Hit the road again tomorrow - hope it`s not quite so hot.
Leave Bella Crka and on to Pancevo. Glad to reach Hotel after 50 miles as it`s getting warm!
Monday 18th May (Happy Birthday - Ben Nelsey, and the Guvenor if he`s reading this from above!)
It`s already 20`, I notice while eating breakfast at 7.30. I can honestly say that I exceeded the advised intake of 2 litres water in a day today. Very hot, but I make nearly 70 miles to Novi Sad, which is Serbia`s second city. The saving grace being flat terrain and following wind. Novi Sad is a lovely place right on the Danube and very much pavement cafe culture.
Tuesday 19th May
Day off and I think it`s hotter still. I spend morning finding bicycle shop and getting rear tyre changed which I notice a few days earlier is badly worn in places.
Indulge myself in lunch of Beef soup, Cabbage Salad, Pancakes, 2 glasses of wine and a coffee in great restaurant 4600 Lire (4 pounds 60p). Hit the road again tomorrow - hope it`s not quite so hot.
Saturday, 16 May 2009
Thurs 14th May
Weather much better, and I cycle along road which runs directly alongside the Danube. Road busy to begin with but then much quieter and spectacular scenery. River very wide in places and then funnels through deep gorges. I have done around 30 miles and stop at little roadside restaurant for drink - turns out to be little hotel, so book in! Anyone coming to Romania, stay at Steaua Dunarii - 30 Euros a night for a double room.
Fri 15th May
Reluctantly leave Steaua Dunarii and for nearly 60 miles hardly see one car in 10 minutes. If it wasn't for the fact that I'm following river I would think I'm on wrong road. Find hotel in Moldova Veche where there is to be 18th birthday party that evening, they are just tuning up loudest disco I think I've ever heard. Waiter says it should finish around 3 - it eventually finishes 3.45!
Just clocked 1,000 miles since leaving Lafionas.
Sat 16th May
Great ride along lovely quiet lanes. Stop at little shop in village and sit down outside whereupon three lad come up - Firstly we argue about which football team is best (Man U, Chelsea etc) then they want to know if English girls are any good!!
Arrive border crossing to Serbia where there are at least 30 cars waiting to cross with no sign of any movement. I just cycle to front and pass straight through - it's easy on a pedal bike.
Weather much better, and I cycle along road which runs directly alongside the Danube. Road busy to begin with but then much quieter and spectacular scenery. River very wide in places and then funnels through deep gorges. I have done around 30 miles and stop at little roadside restaurant for drink - turns out to be little hotel, so book in! Anyone coming to Romania, stay at Steaua Dunarii - 30 Euros a night for a double room.
Fri 15th May
Reluctantly leave Steaua Dunarii and for nearly 60 miles hardly see one car in 10 minutes. If it wasn't for the fact that I'm following river I would think I'm on wrong road. Find hotel in Moldova Veche where there is to be 18th birthday party that evening, they are just tuning up loudest disco I think I've ever heard. Waiter says it should finish around 3 - it eventually finishes 3.45!
Just clocked 1,000 miles since leaving Lafionas.
Sat 16th May
Great ride along lovely quiet lanes. Stop at little shop in village and sit down outside whereupon three lad come up - Firstly we argue about which football team is best (Man U, Chelsea etc) then they want to know if English girls are any good!!
Arrive border crossing to Serbia where there are at least 30 cars waiting to cross with no sign of any movement. I just cycle to front and pass straight through - it's easy on a pedal bike.
Wednesday, 13 May 2009
Monday 11th May
Leave Kozloduj and pass through Lom, a very poor looking town and start out of town along unbelievebly bad road (track) which eventually turns into tarmaced road. Very quiet, maybe one car every 10 - 15 minutes and no bars or shops for maybe 15 miles. Eventually reach village Dobri Dol, and spot 'motel' which is open. Walk in and there is party being given by great big Bulgarian guy, apparently because both his parents had recently died! Young guy, son of lady who owns the Motel, speaks very good English, welcomes me in and asks me to sit down and join the party! I eventually decide I have to stay the night.
Tuesday 12th May
Leave Motel at Dobri Dol after good brakfast of ham and eggs and make my way to Vidin and cross river by ferry to Calafat (Romania). Book into Hotel where I meet 4 German ladies in their 60's making their way from Danube Delta to Belgrade by bicycle.
Wednesday 13 th May
Thunder storm during night, but storm largely passed by morning. Make my way to Dobreta-Turnu Severin. Good ride 63 miles.
Leave Kozloduj and pass through Lom, a very poor looking town and start out of town along unbelievebly bad road (track) which eventually turns into tarmaced road. Very quiet, maybe one car every 10 - 15 minutes and no bars or shops for maybe 15 miles. Eventually reach village Dobri Dol, and spot 'motel' which is open. Walk in and there is party being given by great big Bulgarian guy, apparently because both his parents had recently died! Young guy, son of lady who owns the Motel, speaks very good English, welcomes me in and asks me to sit down and join the party! I eventually decide I have to stay the night.
Tuesday 12th May
Leave Motel at Dobri Dol after good brakfast of ham and eggs and make my way to Vidin and cross river by ferry to Calafat (Romania). Book into Hotel where I meet 4 German ladies in their 60's making their way from Danube Delta to Belgrade by bicycle.
Wednesday 13 th May
Thunder storm during night, but storm largely passed by morning. Make my way to Dobreta-Turnu Severin. Good ride 63 miles.
Sunday, 10 May 2009
"It's not allowed!"
Friday 8th May
Once I get out of Ruse and off main road, good ride t0 Svistov. Find hotel Danube where I ask about room - no problem. I then ask if it's possible to bring bike in hotel? "It's not allowed" was the very firm response. Is there a ferry across the Danube at Svishtov? - "No".
I try hotel across the road. No problem bringing a bike into the hotel, and guess what, there is a ferry across the Danube at Svishtov.
Saturday 9th May
Catch 9 a.m. ferry. I am one of the only two passengers, the other being a great Romanian guy who had been to Svishtov for Rotary meeting. He came out with the wonderful saying - ' "Never Give up"- the Frog said as he was in the Snakes jaws!'
Great days cycling; flat, no wind and find great hotel in Corabia, just beside the Danube.
En route stop at little road side bar for a drink where bar owner speaks a little English. About half an hour later as I'm cycling along, this same guy pulls up in his old citroen van, just passed me and asks me if I want a lift to the next town. I declined - honest!
I reach the next town, Turnu Magurele, and I'm just finding my way through, when another van draws up just in front. Guy gets out and starts shaking my hand. I can just about decypher script on his van "Bicycle repairs". It turns out the guy, 'Christian', just loves bicycles . I explain I'm having little problem with my gears. "Follow me" he says. He then spends about 45 minutes adjusting all gears, perfect! and he would not let me pay.
Met Elvira and Frank, great German couple in their mid 60's making their way on bicycles the opposite direction. They had started in Belgrade and following the Danube to Constanta on Black Sea coast. Great to meet you both and good cycling for the rest of your trip.
Sunday 10th May
Can't help but reflect that this is just a little bit different to this time last year, when I was sharing celebration with Peter of our '60th's' at wonderful party at the Maples with lots of great friends. This year I'm 'on my tod', but I'm having a fantastic experience and met some wonderful people - I feel I'm very lucky to be able to embark on these trips.
800 miles since leaving Lafionas. 185 in the last 3 days.
Dardenelles must be coming up soon!
And I'm keeping a sharp look- out for Tiger Moths approaching from the West!
Good news for Magoo, lots of Trabants, Wartburgs, Lada's and as one avid follower has pointed Moskvitch and I've even seen a few Yugo's that are actually still moving - whatever happened to Magoo's?
Once I get out of Ruse and off main road, good ride t0 Svistov. Find hotel Danube where I ask about room - no problem. I then ask if it's possible to bring bike in hotel? "It's not allowed" was the very firm response. Is there a ferry across the Danube at Svishtov? - "No".
I try hotel across the road. No problem bringing a bike into the hotel, and guess what, there is a ferry across the Danube at Svishtov.
Saturday 9th May
Catch 9 a.m. ferry. I am one of the only two passengers, the other being a great Romanian guy who had been to Svishtov for Rotary meeting. He came out with the wonderful saying - ' "Never Give up"- the Frog said as he was in the Snakes jaws!'
Great days cycling; flat, no wind and find great hotel in Corabia, just beside the Danube.
En route stop at little road side bar for a drink where bar owner speaks a little English. About half an hour later as I'm cycling along, this same guy pulls up in his old citroen van, just passed me and asks me if I want a lift to the next town. I declined - honest!
I reach the next town, Turnu Magurele, and I'm just finding my way through, when another van draws up just in front. Guy gets out and starts shaking my hand. I can just about decypher script on his van "Bicycle repairs". It turns out the guy, 'Christian', just loves bicycles . I explain I'm having little problem with my gears. "Follow me" he says. He then spends about 45 minutes adjusting all gears, perfect! and he would not let me pay.
Met Elvira and Frank, great German couple in their mid 60's making their way on bicycles the opposite direction. They had started in Belgrade and following the Danube to Constanta on Black Sea coast. Great to meet you both and good cycling for the rest of your trip.
Sunday 10th May
Can't help but reflect that this is just a little bit different to this time last year, when I was sharing celebration with Peter of our '60th's' at wonderful party at the Maples with lots of great friends. This year I'm 'on my tod', but I'm having a fantastic experience and met some wonderful people - I feel I'm very lucky to be able to embark on these trips.
800 miles since leaving Lafionas. 185 in the last 3 days.
Dardenelles must be coming up soon!
And I'm keeping a sharp look- out for Tiger Moths approaching from the West!
Good news for Magoo, lots of Trabants, Wartburgs, Lada's and as one avid follower has pointed Moskvitch and I've even seen a few Yugo's that are actually still moving - whatever happened to Magoo's?
Thursday, 7 May 2009
Special message to Jo, "Beaut", "Lickin" and "Boumie"
Wish Boumie and Lickin could be with me on my travels. I could do with some encouragement sometimes, and I know they would be going faster!
Fri 1st May
Left Svilengrad in pretty gloomy weather. Stopped around midday in small town around 20 miles north. Met Bulgarian guy who turns out to be artist and his French lady Francoise who live most of the time in Paris, and then we are joined by English couple, Barry and Margaret Williamson, who took early retirement, travelled the world 3 times including cycling across USA twice, Australia once and the length of New Zealand. They have a website, anyone interested in reading about their travels, I can give you details
By this it was pouring with rain so invited back to Boyko's mothers flat for a drink. All very interesting and sociable.
Booked into Hotel, which although one building, isn't one hotel, but THREE! A nine storey block split into 3 all competing for same customers.
Sat 2nd May
Still raining, but decided to get going. Stopped at really rough little bar when rain got really heavy, whereupon guys in bar seeing my plight, got a load of big old polythene bags, cut holes for arms and head, and dressed me up in them. We were all in stitches, and of course they can't speak any English.
I ate quite good evening meal in bar with Bulgarian pop music (not good!) blaring out, football on TV, and a big picture of Jesus Christ looking at us from behind the bar.
Sun 3rd May
Better weather. Nova Zagora to Karnobat, 58 miles along busy main road. Glad to find comfortable hotel, but all restaurants etc closed - Sunday. 3 packets of crisps, 2 beers, a bar of chocalate for tea!
Mon 4th May
Lovely weather and quiet roads. Loads of birdsong and alot of cuckoos. Great days riding today although tired after 62 miles and two climbs. Directed out of poor looking town of Veliki Preslav to hotel which has good restauant with a lovely girl singer who proceeds to sing "Yesterday" while looking lovingly into my eyes!
Tues 5th May
After breakfast walk down lovely little road where there is an extraordinary acheological museum. Beautiful building, quite a shock after all the ugly communist era tower blocks. All this overlooks lovely monastry which lies in a valley.
Good days cycling, and for one hour in the afternoon I have the wind with me, instead of quite strong north westerly headwind, and instead of making 7 - 8 mph, I'm suddenly making 12 -14 mph. Overnight hotel Popovo. Another good day.
Wed 6th May
Lovely morning and make my way through lovely lanes until I meet main road which leads into Ruse, a big town, and I catch my first glimpse of the Danube.
Thurs 7th May
A day off to rest my weary limbs, wash my "smalls" and chill out, and of course update blog. I've managed just over 600 miles in 15 days so far. Emile, the guy in internet cafe very helpful - hence photo uploaded; also been telling me much about the area, I really should come back here sometime.
Good to see support from everyone, we've even got Potter logged in. Glad to see he is ferverishly sorting Tiger Moth for trip to Lesbos!
And another late entry - Rachael, Laurent, Jessica and "horrors". Rachael please tell Luca and Oscar that 'Golden Go Go' has been my very lucky mascot so far - and he has done 600 miles on a pedal bike.
Left Svilengrad in pretty gloomy weather. Stopped around midday in small town around 20 miles north. Met Bulgarian guy who turns out to be artist and his French lady Francoise who live most of the time in Paris, and then we are joined by English couple, Barry and Margaret Williamson, who took early retirement, travelled the world 3 times including cycling across USA twice, Australia once and the length of New Zealand. They have a website, anyone interested in reading about their travels, I can give you details
By this it was pouring with rain so invited back to Boyko's mothers flat for a drink. All very interesting and sociable.
Booked into Hotel, which although one building, isn't one hotel, but THREE! A nine storey block split into 3 all competing for same customers.
Sat 2nd May
Still raining, but decided to get going. Stopped at really rough little bar when rain got really heavy, whereupon guys in bar seeing my plight, got a load of big old polythene bags, cut holes for arms and head, and dressed me up in them. We were all in stitches, and of course they can't speak any English.
I ate quite good evening meal in bar with Bulgarian pop music (not good!) blaring out, football on TV, and a big picture of Jesus Christ looking at us from behind the bar.
Sun 3rd May
Better weather. Nova Zagora to Karnobat, 58 miles along busy main road. Glad to find comfortable hotel, but all restaurants etc closed - Sunday. 3 packets of crisps, 2 beers, a bar of chocalate for tea!
Mon 4th May
Lovely weather and quiet roads. Loads of birdsong and alot of cuckoos. Great days riding today although tired after 62 miles and two climbs. Directed out of poor looking town of Veliki Preslav to hotel which has good restauant with a lovely girl singer who proceeds to sing "Yesterday" while looking lovingly into my eyes!
Tues 5th May
After breakfast walk down lovely little road where there is an extraordinary acheological museum. Beautiful building, quite a shock after all the ugly communist era tower blocks. All this overlooks lovely monastry which lies in a valley.
Good days cycling, and for one hour in the afternoon I have the wind with me, instead of quite strong north westerly headwind, and instead of making 7 - 8 mph, I'm suddenly making 12 -14 mph. Overnight hotel Popovo. Another good day.
Wed 6th May
Lovely morning and make my way through lovely lanes until I meet main road which leads into Ruse, a big town, and I catch my first glimpse of the Danube.
Thurs 7th May
A day off to rest my weary limbs, wash my "smalls" and chill out, and of course update blog. I've managed just over 600 miles in 15 days so far. Emile, the guy in internet cafe very helpful - hence photo uploaded; also been telling me much about the area, I really should come back here sometime.
Good to see support from everyone, we've even got Potter logged in. Glad to see he is ferverishly sorting Tiger Moth for trip to Lesbos!
And another late entry - Rachael, Laurent, Jessica and "horrors". Rachael please tell Luca and Oscar that 'Golden Go Go' has been my very lucky mascot so far - and he has done 600 miles on a pedal bike.
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